Puppy Resources
Adding a puppy to your family? Check out our care resources below!
- Wellness Timeline
- Groomers in Crawford County
- The Secret To Housetraining Your Puppy
- How To Crate Train a Puppy
- Invisible Fences
- Local Dog Trainers
- Socializing Your Puppy
- Zoonotic Diseases in Dogs
- Spay & Neuter
- Microchipping
- Pet Insurance
Your Puppy’s or Kitten’s Timeline of Healthy Life Recommendations From Conneaut Lake Veterinary Hospital:
Puppies and Kittens – Under 12 months of age
- Initial vaccination series
- Check for intestinal parasites
- Start flea, tick, and heartworm preventatives
- Pick a high quality puppy/kitten food
- Positive interaction between people and animals
- Introduce handling of mouth, ears, and feet
- Schedule spay/neuter surgery
- Obedience training classes
Adult Dogs and Cats – 1 to 6 years of age
- Booster vaccines at regular exams yearly
- Check for intestinal parasites
- Test for heartworm and tick borne diseases
- Continue flea, tick, and heartworm prevention
- Transition to a high quality adult food
- Regular exercise for good body conditioning
- Home dental care
- Grooming and nail trims as needed
Geriatric Dogs and Cats – Over 7 years of age
- Booster vaccines at regular exams twice a year
- Check for intestinal parasites
- Test for heartworm and tick borne diseases
- Basic bloodwork profiles
- Continue flea, tick, and heartworm prevention
- Transition to high quality senior food
- Professional dental cleanings (if needed)
Your Puppy’s or Kitten’s Future Spay or Neuter Surgery At Conneaut Lake Veterinary Hospital:
We recommend puppies and kittens be spayed or neutered at 4-8 months of age. To schedule the procedure please call our office. On the day of surgery you will bring your pet in for a brief exam between 8-8:30am; your pet will then stay in the hospital for the procedure. Please don’t feed your pet after 8:00pm the night before but water is allowed until arrival to our hospital.
You will be given a surgical release form that addresses several aspects pertaining to the surgery. These include:
- Basic bloodwork – which evaluates liver, kidneys, and blood glucose levels
- Administration of medications
- The need for an e-collar
- Microchipping
- Phone number to be reached (post-op or in the case of an emergency)
This is also an ideal time to have your puppy or kitten permanently identified with a microchip. The permanent identification can then be used for a lifetime license. The microchip is injected under the skin between the shoulder blades and can be scanned for identification. You will get information on how to register it to your name with your personal information.
Your pet’s recovery is important to us so we offer an included (no additional charge) overnight stay for hospitalization. A post-surgical evaluation of your puppy’s / kitten’s status is done the morning after surgery. Please call our office after 9:00am to check on your pet and schedule a time to pick them up. A discharge form will be made for your pet with special instructions for post-operative care at home. You will speak with a technician regarding the instructions and what to expect upon your arrival for pick up.
- A Loving Touch (Meadville): 814-336-1333
- Casey’s Grooming (Saegertown): 814-763-6646
- Cherrie’s (Conneaut Lake): 814-382-3224
- Kay-9 Grooming (Conneaut Lake): 814-573-1511
- High Standards (Saegertown): 814-807-2925
- Pawsitively Purrfect (Edinboro): 814-734-4484
- Paws on Earth (Conneaut Lake): 724-974-3196
- Sham-Pooch Grooming (Greenville): 724-588-3203
- Tina’s Grr’Room (Meadville): 814-795-6764
- Tabitha Kopta (Cochranton): 814-795-4485
- Family Farm and Home (Meadville): 814-813-1700
There are a lot of myths out there about properly housetraining your fur baby. Here’s the real secret to making sure that your puppy’s eliminating (peeing and pooping) properly— and both you and your pup are happy in the end.
Here’s the good news: Your dog’s wired to make housetraining possible. But it’s up to you to set her up for success. Wild canines bed down in a den together with their mom. When they’re really small, their mom cleans up after them, but as they grow, cleaning up after six to eight kids can become daunting! Because of this, nature has provided. As a puppy’s brain matures, she starts to instinctively resist soiling the den. Humans can take advantage of this tendency and use it as a tool to teach a puppy when and where to eliminate.
A place to call home
Simulate a “den” experience for your puppy with a crate or safe zone. Keep in mind that it should be small enough to trigger her brain to recognize that it’s her den, but obviously not so small that it’s uncomfortable. Make it a happy place with special toys and treats. Whenever you cannot be there to supervise, she should be safe in her happy place.
Frequent outings
Puppies can’t typically hold their bladders for extended periods, so make accommodations for her to get outside regularly as often as you can. Whenever she eliminates outside (it might help to take her to the same place every time until she associates that spot with peeing and pooping), reward her with praise and treats.
A predictable outcome
Your puppy’s elimination can be predictable—as long as you help:
- Don’t leave food out for around-the-clock snacking.
- Practice mealtimes and make sure you’ll be available for a walk about 10 to 15 minutes later. A full stomach can trigger the bowel to empty, and you can reinforce this tendency with rewards and praise.
- Make sure you can be counted on too. Don’t leave your puppy alone in the crate for longer than she can “hold it.” Every time she’s forced to soil the crate, she’s sending her brain the wrong message.
Punishment is a no-no
Never strike your puppy or rub her nose in an accident. She can’t sort out her fear of your handling from what you’re trying to convey, so she’ll just learn to fear you when you seem upset. If you see her start to posture for elimination, quickly scoop her up, place her on the spot you prefer and reward her when she finishes there.
Accidents will happen
Clean up mishaps with an enzyme cleaner to keep your puppy from going back to that spot. Don’t depend on the puppy to warn you of an impending incident—just take her out every two hours or so. Eventually, she’ll learn to let you know when she needs to go. Hang in there. Remember, the idea of selective elimination is natural to your dog. If you’re being consistent and still can’t seem to housetrain your puppy, ask your veterinary team. They can make sure there are no medical causes for the problem and offer more tips.
Left to their own devices, young puppies can get in a lot of trouble, from soiling the carpet to chewing your favorite pair of shoes. That’s why it’s important to start training early and keep a close eye on them, especially when they’re still learning what’s expected of them. And the best way to do that is to crate train.
Why Crate Train Your Puppy
First of all, understand that crate training is not cruel. In spite of what some people may have told you, breeders and veterinarians recommend using a crate for your dog from a young age.
For thousands of years, dogs in the wild have sought out small “dens,” where they can feel safe and sheltered while resting, caring for puppies, or recovering from an injury or illness. Giving your puppy his own personal bedroom can help him feel more secure.
This method is also extremely effective for house training while you’re not keeping a hawk eye on them—dogs won’t want to soil in their bed, but will have little issue with sneaking into another room of the house to go if they’re not yet fully trained.
Finally, crate training can help prevent anxiety. For puppies, overseeing a big house when no one is with them can be overwhelming. When they feel like they have a smaller place they need to “protect,” it’s much more manageable.
Choosing the Best Dog Crate
So now that we’ve sold you on crate training, here’s how to get started:
Choose a well-ventilated crate that is large enough for your puppy to stand up, lie down, and turn around. Remember that your puppy’s crate will have to grow as he does, so purchase a crate that is appropriate for your dog’s expected full-grown size, and use a divider to make the crate smaller for the time being. Many crates available at pet-supply stores include dividers.
Why size matters: A crate that’s too small will be uncomfortable for your dog, but a crate that’s too large may give your dog the space he needs to have an accident without it ruining his bedding. This behavior might encourage future accidents in the crate and around the home.
How to Teach Your Puppy to Love the Crate
The most important part of crate training is making sure your puppy always associates it with a positive experience.
Start by lining it with blankets and place a few toys inside to make it cozy. You can also cover it with a lightweight blanket to mimic a “den” environment. Make sure it is still ventilated and not too hot if you do this.
Bring your puppy to the crate for naps and quiet-time breaks so that he can “unwind” from family chaos. Start in increments of 10 minutes and work up to longer periods. Offer treats when he goes inside, and distraction toys, like a stuffed KONG.
Every time you take the puppy out of the crate, take him for a walk so he can eliminate. He’ll get used to the idea that potty time comes after crate time. Remember to praise him after he goes to the bathroom outside.
It’s also helpful to keep puppies in the crate overnight. They may cry the first night or two—in most cases, they are simply adjusting to home without their mom and littermates. Most puppies should be able to sleep through the night without a potty break by 4 months of age, but if you’re in doubt, take him outside.
What Not To Do When Crate Training Your Puppy
Never leave a puppy in his crate all day; he needs several bathroom breaks, as well as playand feeding times. Even though he won’t want to soil his sleeping area, if he is in there for extremely long stretches, he just might.
Never use the crate as punishment. Your dog should see his “room” as a place where only happy, peaceful things happen.
Never lose your patience. Learning takes time. If you follow the above advice and are consistent, your puppy will learn to love his crate for years to come.
Congratulations on the new addition to your family! Keeping this new addition safe and healthy is your immediate goal. We at Invisible Fence® Brand would like to help.
We’re not just about outside fencing anymore; we are people who care about animals. We offer a free in home consultation with cat and dog, indoor and outdoor, containment and behavioral solutions.
Call our local office at 814-476-9990 or if a McKean exchange is long distance for you, use our toll free number 800-838-BARK (2275). We will schedule an appointment convenient for you and offer you a lifetime of support and a lifetime warranty on our electronics.
Cross keeping your new pet safe off your list, let Invisible Fence® Brand help. Use this letter as a special offer for $100 off a professionally installed Invisible Fence® Brand Solution.
We look forward to hearing from you. Make sure and mention this show offer when making your appointment!
*Offer valid on selected fully installed outdoor solutions only. Previous purchases excluded. Not redeemable for cash. Cannot be combined with other offers or discounts.
Invisible Fence Co. of Eri
8983 Neuburger Rd. Fairview, PA 16415
Phone: 814-476-9990
Country Liv’n Kennels Phone: 814-476-7202
RED BALL ACADEMY (CONNEAUT LAKE; ROBIN): 814-425-7185 /814-720-7893
DOWN HOME DOG TRAINING (MEADVILLE; HANNAH): 814-547-8091
ATTABOY (MEADVILLE): 814-333-1724
GROOVY POOCH (SAEGERTOWN): 814-763-5968 /814-720-1456
SAMS (SAEGERTOWN): 814-783-0111
MANNERLY K9 (HADLEY): 814-205-3662
DUNLAP (HADLEY): 724-313-6477
FULL PHASE K9 TRAINING (FRANKLIN): 814-201-1919
PERFECT PET DOG TRAINING (ANDOVER, OH): 888-739-2180
LEARNING DOG (HUBBARD, OH): 330-534-4990
PAW AND ORDER DOG TRAINING (MEADVILLE; SABRINA LANE) 814-230-0010
*These are some of the dog trainers in the area; however, we do not personally work with any. We appreciate any feedback you may have if you chose a trainer.*
Socialization is the process of preparing your dog to enjoy interactions with other dogs and be comfortable with other animals, people, places and activities. Socialization should begin during the puppy’s “sensitive period,” which is between 3 and 14 weeks of age.
SOCIALIZATION TIPS:
- When adopting from a puppy raiser ask for their socialization plan pre- and post-adoption; avoid puppy raisers unable or unwilling to share this plan.
- For all dogs adapt or create your socialization plan to prepare your dog for his or her life in your household including planned exposure to the species, individuals, environments and activities that will be part of his or her new life at a pace that will encourage calm or playful responses from your dog.
- Provide regular positive experiences with these and other diverse experiences to encourage your dog to enjoy new experiences without becoming fearful or aggressive.
- Provide praise, play and treats to reward engagement.
- Allow the dog to withdraw if he or she is uncomfortable.
- Move at a pace appropriate for your dog’s temperament.
- Well-managed puppy socialization classes are a good way to begin to socialize a puppy within the sensitive period and to learn more about socialization.
- Continue to reward your dog for calm or playful responses to social interactions and new experiences throughout his or her life.
- For dogs with special behavioral needs work in consultation with your veterinarian and/or another animal behavior expert.
- Puppies that have not been fully vaccinated should not be exposed to animals of unknown vaccination status or potentially contaminated areas (such as outdoor parks).
Questions or concerns? Ask us. We are always happy to help. AVMA.org/socialization
What is a zoonotic disease?
Zoonotic disease or zoonosis are terms used to describe an infection or disease that can be transmitted from an animal to a human being.
How great is the risk of contracting a zoonotic disease from my dog?
Current evidence supports the fact that pet dogs pose a minimal zoonotic risk to their human companions. Risk may be slightly higher in people with a compromised immune system from disease or medication, such as:
- people with AIDS/HIV.
- people on chemotherapy or receiving radiation therapy.
- people who are elderly or have chronic diseases.
- people with congenital immune deficiencies.
- people who have received organ or bone marrow transplants.
- pregnant women (the fetal immune system is not fully developed, and the pregnant woman’s immune system is altered during pregnancy).
If you fall into one of these categories, it does not mean you have to give up your pet. It simply means that you should take some basic precautions such monitoring your dog for any signs of illness, washing your hands after extensive handling of your dog, and avoiding direct contact with your dog’s feces or urine.
It is important to keep in mind that numerous studies prove that the benefits of having a pet far outweigh the risks. Sharing your home with a pet is often just what the doctor ordered.
What are the most common zoonotic diseases of dogs?
- ringworm
- salmonellosis
- leptospirosis
- Lyme disease
- campylobacter infection
- Giardia infection
- cryptosporidium infection
- roundworms
- hookworms
- tapeworms
- scabies
- harvest mites
- rabies
What zoonotic diseases are the most likely to cause serious illness in people?
Rabies, caused by a virus, is almost invariably fatal in humans.
Certain infectious organisms, such as the bacteria Salmonella and Campylobacter and the protozoan disease caused by Giardia, can cause severe gastroenteritis.
Leptospirosis, known as Weil’s disease in people, can cause extremely serious liver and kidney disease but the transmission from dogs to humans is rare. Humans usually contract this disease from exposure to contaminated water.
Roundworms (Toxocara canis) and tapeworms (Echinococcus species) can cause liver problems, but illness in people from these causes is rare. Direct handling of infected dog feces can potentially cause an infection of roundworms in a susceptible person. Echinococcus tapeworm infections are starting to become more common in areas of Canada and the United States where they had not been recognized before (see handout “Echinococcosis in Dogs” for more information on this disease). Transmission to humans can result from ingestion of eggs released in an infected dog’s feces.
Zoonotic skin diseases including ringworm, caused by the fungus Microsporum canis and scabies, caused by the mite Sarcoptes scabiei, Cheyletiella mites, and harvest mites (Trombicula species) are transmitted relatively easily to people through direct physical contact.
How can I reduce the risk of contracting one of these diseases from my dog?
Simple hygiene and common sense will drastically reduce, if not eliminate, the risk of zoonotic spread of disease from dog to people. Some of the things you can do include:
- Make sure that any sign of illness or disease in your dog is diagnosed and treated promptly by your veterinarian. If your dog is sick, make sure you wash your hands after all contact with him.
- Bathe and groom your dog. This will increase the chance of early detection of any skin lesions.
- Give your dog a broad-spectrum deworming product on a regular basis. The simplest way to do this is to use a monthly heartworm product that includes a dewormer.
- Wear gloves when gardening or working in areas where dogs, cats, or other animals may have urinated or defecated.
- Pick up any feces on your property and stoop and scoop when you take your dog for a walk. Dispose of all waste materials promptly and safely.
- Do not allow your pets to contact children’s feces.
- Always ensure you wash your hands after handling any animal.
- Provide separate food and water dishes for your dog, and wash and store them separately from your family’s dishes.
- Wash pet bedding frequently.
- Use flea and tick control products on a routine basis.
WHAT ARE THE RISKS OF SPAYING AND NEUTERING?
Although reproductive hormones cause mating behaviors that may be undesirable for many pet owners, these hormones also affect your pet’s overall health and can be beneficial. Removing your pet’s ovaries or testes removes these hormones and can result in increased risk of health problems such as urinary incontinence and some types of cancer. Talk to your veterinarian about the benefits and risks of the sterilization procedure so you can make an informed decision.
While both spaying and neutering are major surgical procedures, they are also the most common surgeries performed by veterinarians on cats and dogs. Like any surgical procedure, sterilization is associated with some anesthetic and surgical risk, but the overall incidence of complications is very low. Before the procedure, your pet is given a thorough physical examination to ensure that he/she is in good health. General anesthesia is administered to perform the surgery and medications are given to minimize pain. You will be asked to keep your pet calm and quiet for a few days after surgery as the incision begins to heal.
WHEN SHOULD I SPAY OR NEUTER MY PET?
Consult your veterinarian about the most appropriate time to spay or neuter your pet based upon his/her breed, age and physical condition. Keep in mind that, contrary to popular belief, it may NOT be best to wait until your female dog or cat has gone through her first heat cycle.
HOW DO I DECIDE?
Discuss your options with your veterinarian so you can get answers and make an informed decision. Many pet owners opt to spay or neuter their pets, and spaying and neutering are important for reducing pet overpopulation.
WHAT ARE THE OPTIONS?
If you decide to spay or neuter your pet, you have options. Discuss the options with your veterinarian so you can make a decision that’s right for you, your family and your pet.
Surgical sterilization
During surgical sterilization, a veterinarian removes certain reproductive organs.
- Ovariohysterectomy, or the typical “spay”: the ovaries, fallopian tubes and uterus are removed from a female dog or cat. This makes her unable to reproduce, eliminates her heat cycle, and reduces breeding instinct-related behavior.
- Orchiectomy, or the typical “neuter”: the testes are removed from a male dog or cat. This makes him unable to reproduce and reduces or eliminates male breeding behaviors.
Surgical alternatives to traditional spaying and neutering
The procedures described above are the surgical procedures routinely used to spay or neuter dogs, but some pet owners opt for one of these alternatives:
- Hysterectomy: the uterus and part of the fallopian tubes are removed from a female dog or cat. This makes her unable to reproduce, but her ovaries remain and will produce hormones. This may not eliminate the dog or cat’s behaviors associated with the breeding instinct.
- Vasectomy: only the vas deferens, which conducts sperm from the testes, are removed. This procedure makes the dog or cat unable to reproduce, but his testes remain and will produce hormones. This may not eliminate the dog or cat’s behaviors associated with the breeding instinct.
- Ovariectomy: the ovaries are removed from a female dog or cat, but the uterus remains. Similar to ovariohysterectomy, this makes her unable to reproduce, eliminates her heat cycle, and reduces breeding instinct- related behavior.
Nonsurgical sterilization
There is an approved product on the market used to neuter male cats and dogs that is injected into the testes to stop sperm production and render the dog or cat infertile. Because not all of the hormone-producing cells of the testes are affected by the drug, the testis will continue to produce some hormones. As research continues, additional products for nonsurgical sterilization may be developed.
WHY SPAY OR NEUTER?
Every year, millions of unwanted dogs and cats, including puppies and kittens, are euthanized. The good news is that responsible pet owners can make a difference. By having your dog or cat sterilized, you will do your part to prevent the birth of unwanted puppies and kittens. Spaying and neutering prevent unwanted litters, help protect against some serious health problems, and may reduce many of the behavioral problems associated with the mating instinct.
Removing a female dog or cat’s ovaries eliminates heat cycles and generally reduces the unwanted behaviors that may lead to owner frustration. Removing the testes from male dogs and cats reduces the breeding instinct, making them less inclined to roam and more content to stay at home.
Early spaying of female dogs and cats can help protect them from some serious health problems later in life such as uterine infections and breast cancer. Neutering your male pet can also lessen his risk of developing benign prostatic hyperplasia (enlarged prostate gland) and testicular cancer.
The procedure has no effect on a pet’s intelligence or ability to learn, play, work or hunt. Some pets tend to be better behaved following surgical removal of their ovaries or testes, making them more desirable companions.
Why Do Pets Run Away?
Dogs and cats by their very nature have characteristics that make wandering common. Both are highly curious by nature. Their close relatives include wolves and tigers, both of which hunt and check out new areas of interest continually. Exploring and chasing objects of desire is an instinctive action for household pets; even if they receive proper attention and care at home, because by their nature they will have an inkling to find out what lies beyond their territories, and sometimes that longing can’t be denied.
Dogs in particular have several forces that could potentially propel them out the door. For starters, just the smell of another dog in heat could spark their procreation urge. Neutering and spaying reduce this likelihood by about 90 percent, but that leaves a small percentage of fixed animals that are ruled by pheromones. Another way their noses get them into trouble is by smelling food. If a tasty treat from afar tempts them enough, they’ll seek out its source. Also, if they’re not being stimulated enough at home-puppies and certain breeds have tons of energy and need proper outlets for it – they can run away out of sheer boredom.
Ask Your Veterinarian About Microchipping Your Pet
It Gives Your Pet a Silent Voice.
Even though family pets cannot talk you have the power to provide a silent voice to your “best friend,” by microchipping your family pet. A microchip is a small device, about the size of a grain of rice. The microchip is an identifying integrated circuit that your veterinarian can implant under the skin of your family pet.
Why Microchip Your Pet?
Each year millions of lost and abandoned animals are taken in by animal welfare organizations throughout the United States. A very small percentage of those lost pets are actually reunited with their family. The major reason for failing to reunite a lost pet with its owner is because the pets are unidentifiable. Microchipping offers pet owners the only truly permanent method of identifying your pet and linking the animal back to you. If you want to improve your pet’s chances of getting home in a lost-pet emergency-microchipping is your best option.
Is a Collar and Tag Adequate? What About Tattooing My Dog?
Collars are good, but both collars and tags may be removed or get lost and tattooing can become illegible over time – Microchipping is the only truly permanent method of identifying your dog.
Can My Cat Be Microchipped?
Cats by nature are curious and unpredictable. If they are drawn away from the safety of their home, you need to give them the best chance of getting home safely. In the event your cat does get lost, a registered microchip is your cat’s best chance of getting home.
Is Microchipping Painful?
Animal microchips are about the size of a grain of rice and are typically implanted just beneath the skin between the shoulder blades by your veterinarian. The process is similar to a vaccination and most animals do not react when the microchip is implanted.
Microchipping Really Works.
The Humane Society of the United States recently published a study that involved 53 separate animal shelters, located throughout the United States, to determine the effect that microchips had in reuniting lost pets with their families. In this study that involved thousands of animals, the results showed a 250% increase in reuniting microchipped dogs with their owners as compared to those dogs that had not been microchipped, and a 20-fold increase in reuniting lost cats with their family, in comparison to those that had not been microchipped.
When Is the Best Time to Microchip Your Pet?
If your pet is not currently microchipped, it would be good to consider having it done today. If you have a new puppy or kitten, we recommend that you have them microchipped at the time of their final puppy or kitten vaccination.
How Much Does it Cost to Register My Pet in the PetLink Lost Pet Database?
It costs you nothing. When your veterinarian implants the microchip in your pet it automatically includes registration into the PetLink Lost Pet Database for the life of your pet.
How Much Are the Annual Fees Required to Maintain My Pet Registered in the PetLink Database?
When your veterinarian implants your pet with a Datamars microchip there are no hidden or annual fees to maintain your pet registration in the PetLink Database. Some other manufacturers of microchips do charge an additional fee every year to maintain your pet in the registry database, but not Datamars. You should ask your veterinary practitioner if the product that he or she is implanting under the skin of your pet includes lost pet registration that is good for the life of your pet or will you be charged to maintain the registration each year.
As veterinary medicine becomes more technologically advanced, the cost of care increases because of the higher costs associated with the equipment, facilities and training required to provide these higher-quality services. Pet insurance can help by offsetting some or most of the costs of diagnosing, treating and managing your pet’s illness or injury.
Pet insurance isn’t for everyone, and there’s no magic formula that will tell you if it’s right for you and your pet. If you’re considering pet insurance, talk with your veterinarian and do some research on your options. Here are some basic considerations:
- Regardless of the insurance provider, your veterinarian should be monitoring the health of your pet as part of a valid Veterinary-Client-Patient Relationship.
- The insurance provider should clearly spell out to you the details, including the limitations and exclusions, of coverage for routine and/or wellness care as well as emergency treatments and conditions that require extensive care. Find out how your premiums will increase as your pet ages or if you make any claims.
- See if there are add-on options to provide any specific coverage you may want, such as dental care or travel insurance.
- Find out how the provider defines and handles pre-existing conditions, including diseases and conditions your pet has now or may have had in the past before you bought your insurance plan.
- In some cases, insurance providers will not insure a specific pet or breed of pet, or they may limit the number of pets you can insure, if the pets are considered “high risk.”
- Some providers offer pricing discounts for multiple pets.
- All charges, including co-pays, deductibles, add-on charges and other fees, should be clearly explained to you so you fully understand the policy and its limitations.
- You should be allowed to choose the veterinarian who will care for your pet.
- Pet insurance plans are generally reimbursement plans – you pay the bills up front and are reimbursed by the insurance provider. Ask the insurance provider how claims are processed and what the timeframe is for reimbursement. If you’re concerned about covering the expenses up front, ask your veterinarian about payment options that will work for you in case you need to make arrangements. It’s best to know your options ahead of time so you don’t have the added stress of trying to make payment arrangements during an emergency.
For more information, see the AVMA’s pet health insurance policy.
When selecting a health insurance policy, consider the following questions:
- Do you need a policy only for unexpected or emergency expenses?
- Is preventive care and checkup coverage necessary?
- Does the policy cover accidents, illness, and/or preventive care?
- Are hereditary conditions covered?
- How are pre-existing conditions defined? It is possible to submit medical records to most insurance companies to determine what they would consider a pre-existing condition. Pre-existing conditions are ineligible for reimbursement, although some have a time frame at which they are no longer consider pre-existing.
- Does the policy require you to pay the veterinarian and apply for reimbursement (most policies do)?
- Can you choose any veterinarian?
- If the premium changes, what are those changes based upon? Does it increase annually with age?
- What is the maximum reimbursement amount?
- Is there a deductible (amount due before policy comes into effect)?
- What is the percentage of the total bill that is reimbursed? (usually 80% – 90%)
- What is the average time it takes for reimbursement?
- What is the policyholder satisfaction rate?
Pet insurance providers
Your veterinarian may be able to recommend a pet insurance company based on his or her experience. But it’s ultimately your decision whether or not to buy, what coverage to choose, and from what company. There are consumer websites that compare features and costs of pet insurance, and/or offer reviews, and you might find these helpful. This alphabetical list of pet insurance companies can help you investigate and decide if pet insurance is right for your pet. The AVMA does not endorse or recommend any provider over others.
24PetWatch
AKC Pet Insurance
ASPCA Pet Health Insurance
Best Friends Pet Insurance
Embrace Pet Insurance
Figo Pet Insurance
Healthy Paws
PetFirst Healthcare
Pets Best
Petplan
Pumpkin