Kitten Resources

Vaccinate to Keep Your Cat Healthy

There are a number of important infectious diseases that cat owners should be aware of and have their feline pet vaccinated for. These diseases fall into four general categories:

• Immunosuppressive
• Respiratory
• Gastrointestinal
• Nervous System Diseases

Cats of all ages and breeds may be at risk of contracting one or more of the following diseases:

• Feline Immunodeficiency Virus
• Feline Leukemia
• Feline Calicivirus
• Feline Herpes Virus
• Feline Chlamydiosis
• Feline Infectious Peritonitis
• Feline Distemper
• Rabies

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)

FIV causes feline AIDS in cats. It’s not the same virus as the human immunodeficiency virus (HIB) that causes human AIDS. A cat with FIV may remain relatively healthy for several years before its immune system becomes too weak to fight off other diseases. There is no cure for feline AIDS and up to 1 in 12 cats in North America test positive for FIV.

Clinical signs may include:

• Immune System Suppression
• Chronic Susceptibility to Other Infections

Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV)

This viral disease attacks the immune system and leaves the cat vulnerable to a host of secondary infections. There is no known relationship between FeLV and leukemia as it occurs in humans. Because the transmission usually occurs through contact with other felines, those cats that live in multi-cat households or are allowed to roam outdoors are particularly at risk.

Clinical signs may include:

• Immune System Suppression
• Chronic Susceptibility to other infections
• Death within three years of infection

Contagious Respiratory Diseases

Feline Calicivirus (FCV)
Calici is a virus that affects the feline upper respiratory system and accounts for approximately 40 percent of all respiratory diseases in cats. Even if successfully treated, cats infected with FCV can become chronic virus carriers with lifelong clinical signs of sneezing and running eyes.

Clinical signs may include:

• Moderate Fever
• Ulcers
• Blisters on the Tongue

Feline Herpes Virus (FHV)
Herpes is the most common upper respiratory infection in cats. Even if successfully treated, FHV can lead to lifelong infection.

Clinical signs may include:

• Moderate Fever
• Appetite Loss
• Sneezing
• Tearing
• Discharge from the Eyes and Nose
• Mouth Breathing and Coughing

Feline Chlamydiosis

Once known as “Feline Pneumonitis,” this disease causes a relatively mild upper respiratory infection, particularly affecting the mucous membranes of the eyes. Boarding your cat increases its risk of chlamydia infection and disease.

Clinical signs may include:

• Tearing
• Occasional Sneezing
• Nasal Discharge

Gastrointestinal Diseases

Panleukopenia

Panleukopenia or feline distemper is a widespread, often fatal disease. Since most cats are likely to be exposed to panleukopenia in their lifetime, vaccination against this illness is important.

Clinical signs may include:

• Fever
• Depression
• Loss of Appetite
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Nervous System Disease

Rabies

Rabies is a fatal viral disease of mammals including cats, dogs, livestock and humans. Infected wildlife and unvaccinated animals are the source of the virus. As rabies is a major health hazard, it is extremely important your pet be vaccinated against it. In many states and cities, rabies vaccine is required by law.

Clinical signs may include:

• Foaming at the Mouth
• Death

WHAT ARE THE RISKS OF SPAYING AND NEUTERING?

Although reproductive hormones cause mating behaviors that may be undesirable for many pet owners, these hormones also affect your pet’s overall health and can be beneficial. Removing your pet’s ovaries or testes removes these hormones and can result in increased risk of health problems such as urinary incontinence and some types of cancer. Talk to your veterinarian about the benefits and risks of the sterilization procedure so you can make an informed decision.

While both spaying and neutering are major surgical procedures, they are also the most common surgeries performed by veterinarians on cats and dogs. Like any surgical procedure, sterilization is associated with some anesthetic and surgical risk, but the overall incidence of complications is very low. Before the procedure, your pet is given a thorough physical examination to ensure that he/she is in good health. General anesthesia is administered to perform the surgery and medications are given to minimize pain. You will be asked to keep your pet calm and quiet for a few days after surgery as the incision begins to heal.

WHEN SHOULD I SPAY OR NEUTER MY PET?

Consult your veterinarian about the most appropriate time to spay or neuter your pet based upon his/her breed, age and physical condition. Keep in mind that, contrary to popular belief, it may NOT be best to wait until your female dog or cat has gone through her first heat cycle.

HOW DO I DECIDE?

Discuss your options with your veterinarian so you can get answers and make an informed decision. Many pet owners opt to spay or neuter their pets, and spaying and neutering are important for reducing pet overpopulation.

WHAT ARE THE OPTIONS?

If you decide to spay or neuter your pet, you have options. Discuss the options with your veterinarian so you can make a decision that’s right for you, your family and your pet.

Surgical sterilization

During surgical sterilization, a veterinarian removes certain reproductive organs.

• Ovariohysterectomy, or the typical “spay”: the ovaries, fallopian tubes and uterus are removed from a female dog or cat. This makes her unable to reproduce, eliminates her heat cycle, and reduces breeding instinct-related behavior.
• Orchiectomy, or the typical “neuter”: the testes are removed from a male dog or cat. This makes him unable to reproduce and reduces or eliminates male breeding behaviors.

Surgical alternatives to traditional spaying and neutering
The procedures described above are the surgical procedures routinely used to spay or neuter dogs, but some pet owners opt for one of these alternatives:

• Hysterectomy: the uterus and part of the fallopian tubes are removed from a female dog or cat. This makes her unable to reproduce, but her ovaries remain and will produce hormones. This may not eliminate the dog or cat’s behaviors associated with the breeding instinct.
• Vasectomy: only the vas deferens, which conducts sperm from the testes, are removed. This procedure makes the dog or cat unable to reproduce, but his testes remain and will produce hormones. This may not eliminate the dog or cat’s behaviors associated with the breeding instinct.
• Ovariectomy: the ovaries are removed from a female dog or cat, but the uterus remains. Similar to ovariohysterectomy, this makes her unable to reproduce, eliminates her heat cycle, and reduces breeding instinct- related behavior.

Nonsurgical sterilization

There is an approved product on the market used to neuter male cats and dogs that is injected into the testes to stop sperm production and render the dog or cat infertile. Because not all of the hormone-producing cells of the testes are affected by the drug, the testis will continue to produce some hormones. As research continues, additional products for nonsurgical sterilization may be developed.

WHY SPAY OR NEUTER?

Every year, millions of unwanted dogs and cats, including puppies and kittens, are euthanized. The good news is that responsible pet owners can make a difference. By having your dog or cat sterilized, you will do your part to prevent the birth of unwanted puppies and kittens. Spaying and neutering prevent unwanted litters, help protect against some serious health problems, and may reduce many of the behavioral problems associated with the mating instinct.

Removing a female dog or cat’s ovaries eliminates heat cycles and generally reduces the unwanted behaviors that may lead to owner frustration. Removing the testes from male dogs and cats reduces the breeding instinct, making them less inclined to roam and more content to stay at home.

Early spaying of female dogs and cats can help protect them from some serious health problems later in life such as uterine infections and breast cancer. Neutering your male pet can also lessen his risk of developing benign prostatic hyperplasia (enlarged prostate gland) and testicular cancer.

The procedure has no effect on a pet’s intelligence or ability to learn, play, work or hunt. Some pets tend to be better behaved following surgical removal of their ovaries or testes, making them more desirable companions.

As veterinary medicine becomes more technologically advanced, the cost of care increases because of the higher costs associated with the equipment, facilities and training required to provide these higher-quality services. Pet insurance can help by offsetting some or most of the costs of diagnosing, treating and managing your pet’s illness or injury.

Pet insurance isn’t for everyone, and there’s no magic formula that will tell you if it’s right for you and your pet. If you’re considering pet insurance, talk with your veterinarian and do some research on your options. Here are some basic considerations:

• Regardless of the insurance provider, your veterinarian should be monitoring the health of your pet as part of a valid Veterinary-Client-Patient Relationship.
• The insurance provider should clearly spell out to you the details, including the limitations and exclusions, of coverage for routine and/or wellness care as well as emergency treatments and conditions that require extensive care. Find out how your premiums will increase as your pet ages or if you make any claims.
• See if there are add-on options to provide any specific coverage you may want, such as dental care or travel insurance.
• Find out how the provider defines and handles pre-existing conditions, including diseases and conditions your pet has now or may have had in the past before you bought your insurance plan.
• In some cases, insurance providers will not insure a specific pet or breed of pet, or they may limit the number of pets you can insure, if the pets are considered “high risk.”
• Some providers offer pricing discounts for multiple pets.
• All charges, including co-pays, deductibles, add-on charges and other fees, should be clearly explained to you so you fully understand the policy and its limitations.
• You should be allowed to choose the veterinarian who will care for your pet.
• Pet insurance plans are generally reimbursement plans – you pay the bills up front and are reimbursed by the insurance provider. Ask the insurance provider how claims are processed and what the timeframe is for reimbursement. If you’re concerned about covering the expenses up front, ask your veterinarian about payment options that will work for you in case you need to make arrangements. It’s best to know your options ahead of time so you don’t have the added stress of trying to make payment arrangements during an emergency.

For more information, see the AVMA’s pet health insurance policy.

When selecting a health insurance policy, consider the following questions:

• Do you need a policy only for unexpected or emergency expenses?
• Is preventive care and checkup coverage necessary?
• Does the policy cover accidents, illness, and/or preventive care?
• Are hereditary conditions covered?
• How are pre-existing conditions defined? It is possible to submit medical records to most insurance companies to determine what they would consider a pre-existing condition. Pre-existing conditions are ineligible for reimbursement, although some have a time frame at which they are no longer consider pre-existing.
• Does the policy require you to pay the veterinarian and apply for reimbursement (most policies do)?
• Can you choose any veterinarian?
• If the premium changes, what are those changes based upon? Does it increase annually with age?
• What is the maximum reimbursement amount?
• Is there a deductible (amount due before policy comes into effect)?
• What is the percentage of the total bill that is reimbursed? (usually 80% – 90%)
• What is the average time it takes for reimbursement?
• What is the policyholder satisfaction rate?

Pet insurance providers

Your veterinarian may be able to recommend a pet insurance company based on his or her experience. But it’s ultimately your decision whether or not to buy, what coverage to choose, and from what company. There are consumer websites that compare features and costs of pet insurance, and/or offer reviews, and you might find these helpful. This alphabetical list of pet insurance companies can help you investigate and decide if pet insurance is right for your pet. The AVMA does not endorse or recommend any provider over others.

24PetWatch

AKC Pet Insurance​

ASPCA Pet Health Insurance

Best Friends Pet Insurance

Embrace Pet Insurance

Figo Pet Insurance

Healthy Paws

PetFirst Healthcare

Pets Best

Petplan

Pumpkin

PurinaCare

Trupanion

VPI

Providing good health care, especially preventive health care, can allow your cats to have longer, more comfortable lives. However, this cannot happen unless they see the veterinarian for needed care. Many cats dislike going to the veterinarian, and that starts with the difficulty of getting the cat into the carrier. If we can make this step easier, the entire veterinary visit is usually less stressful.

The following tips will help make veterinary visits easier for you and your cat.

Understanding your Cat’s Behavior

• Cats are most comfortable with the familiar, and need time to adjust to the unfamiliar. The visit to the veterinarian is often difficult because the carrier, car, and the veterinary hospital are usually unfamiliar. Respect your cat’s need for time to become familiar with new situations, people and places.
• Stay calm. Cats can sense our anxiety or frustrations, which may cause them to become fearful or anxious.
• Cats do not learn from punishment or force. Give rewards to encourage positive behavior. For example, if your cat is sitting calmly in or near a carrier, give a treat. Likewise, rewards can be given to help your cat become familiar with the type of handling that may be encountered at the veterinarian (e.g., handling paws, ears and mouth). A treat is what is highly desirable to your cat, which may be in the form of food, play or affection. Be persistent and reward every time.

Helping Your Cat Become Comfortable with the Carrier

The goal is for your cat to learn to associate the carrier with positive experiences and routinely enter voluntarily.

• Make the carrier a familiar place at home by leaving it in a room where your cat spends a lot of time.
• Place familiar soft bedding inside the carrier. Bedding or clothing with your
  scent can make them feel more secure.
• Place treats, catnip or toys inside the carrier to encourage the cat to enter at home. Often, you will first see that treats are removed from the carrier during the night.
• It may take days or weeks before your cat starts to trust the carrier. Remain calm, patient and reward desired behaviors.
• If you still have trouble, you may need to assess the carrier itself.

Getting an Unwilling Cat into the Carrier

If your cat needs to go to the veterinarian right away, and is not yet accustomed to the carrier, the following may help:

• Start by putting the carrier in a small room with few hiding places. Bring the cat into the room and close the door. Move slowly and calmly. Do not chase the cat to get it into the carrier. Encourage the cat with treats or toys to walk into the carrier.
• If your cat will not walk into the carrier, and your carrier has an opening on the top, gently cradle your cat and lower it into the carrier. Another option is to remove the top half of your carrier while getting the cat to go into the bottom half, and then calmly replace the top as pictured above.
• Use familiar bedding inside the carrier. Consider use of synthetic feline facial pheromone (Feliway) analog spray in the carrier at least 30 minutes prior to transport to help calm the cat.

Coming Home – Keeping the Peace in a Multi-cat Household

Cats are very sensitive to smells, and unfamiliar smells can result in one cat no longer recognizing another. Aggressive behavior can occur when one cat senses another as a stranger. These suggestions can help avoid problems between cats following a veterinary visit:

• Leave the returning cat in the carrier for a few minutes to see how all of your cats react.
• If all cats appear calm and peaceful, let the returning cat out of the carrier.
• If you sense tension between the cats, or if previous home-comings have resulted in conflict, keep the cat in the carrier and take it to a separate room to avoid potential injury from an upset cat. Provide food, water and litter box for a minimum of 24 hours while it regains the more familiar smell of home.
• If there is still stress after this time, contact your veterinarian for more advice on slower introduction or medication to help the process.
• A synthetic feline pheromone (Feliway®) can help provide the sense of familiarity.
• For future visits:
  • Use familiar bedding or clothing with your scent, as it retains the smell of home and helps with reintroduction.
  • Use a synthetic feline pheromone (Feliway®).
  • Bring both cats to the veterinary practice together. This can prevent future conflict as both cats will carry the scent of the clinic.

What Type of Carriers are Best?

The best carriers are inexpensive hard- sided carriers that open from the top and the front, and can also be taken apart in the middle. An easily removable top allows a cat which is fearful, anxious or in pain to stay in the bottom half of the carrier for exams. Your veterinarian can often do the exam in the bottom of a well-designed carrier. Avoid carriers that require a cat to be pulled from or dumped out for an exam.

Choose carriers that are sturdy, secure and stable for the cat, as well as easy for you to carry. The Center for Pet Safety recommends that the carrier be belted into the backseat only if they have been crash tested. All others should be placed on the floor of the backseat.

Some cats like to see out, whereas others are less anxious when the carrier is covered with a blanket or towel to prevent seeing the unfamiliar.

What is Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)?

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) was first discovered in 1986 when cats started showing signs of immunodeficiency-like illnesses, similar to the symptoms seen in people with human immunodeficiency virus (HIV). In fact, FIV is classified in the same family of viruses as HIV. These viruses are all species-specific, meaning FIV cannot be transmitted from cat to human, and humans can’t transfer HIV to cats. Unfortunately, there is no treatment for FIV, and once infected, your cat will carry the virus for the remainder of his life.

Signs & Symptoms

Shortly after initial FIV infection, your cat’s white blood cell count begins to decline, causing progressive impairment of your cat’s immune system. Many cats will remain without symptoms for several years. Medical signs and symptoms are usually due to secondary infections and chronic degenerative conditions. Symptoms may include:

• Inflammation and chronic gingivitis in the mouth
• Diarrhea
• Fever
• Pneumonia
• Poor coat condition
• Loss of appetite
• Weight loss
• Skin disease
• Sinus infections
• Neurological problems

Many cats infected with FIV live a long life, especially if routine wellness care is provided to aid early disease detection, and exposure to other infectious disease is limited.

How is FIV Transmitted?

Transmission most commonly happens through bite wounds. FIV virus is contained in the blood, saliva, and cerebrospinal fluid of infected cats. The virus is fragile outside the body and does not survive in the environment.

Transmission through close contact, as with feline leukemia virus (FeLV), occurs rarely. FIV may be transmitted to unborn kittens if their mother is infected during pregnancy. FIV is found in cat populations worldwide.

How Can I Prevent My Cat from Getting FIV?

• The best way to prevent infection is by minimizing exposure to infected cats.
• Outdoor cats are more likely to contract FIV than indoor cats, and male cats are twice as likely to be infected due to their tendencies to roam and fight. Spaying and neutering helps decrease these roaming and fighting tendencies.

Management

• If your veterinarian has confirmed that your cat has FIV, you should work together to create a plan to keep your cat healthy and happy for as long as possible.
• You should keep your cat indoors to prevent the spread of FIV-infection to other cats in the neighborhood and to reduce their exposure to infections.
• Consult with your veterinarian about getting your cat spayed or neutered.
• Feed your cat a well-balanced diet that is suited to his needs.
• Schedule check-ups for your cat every six months to monitor his weight, symptoms, and general health.
• If you notice any changes in your cat’s behavior or health, call your veterinarian immediately.

What is Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV)?

Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) is a common infectious disease in cats. It is most commonly found in environments where there are a lot of cats, like a multi-cat household and where feral cats live in a free-roaming environment.

Signs and Symptoms of FeLV

The signs and symptoms of FeLV vary greatly depending on the infected cells. Some cats show mild symptoms, but many cats don’t have any noticeable symptoms. Signs may include:

• Fever
• Loss of appetite
• Weight loss
• Lethargy
• Poor coat or fur condition
• Enlarged lymph nodes
• Pale gums
• Infections of the skin, bladder, and upper respiratory
• Reproductive problems in unspayed females

Eventually, FeLV-associated diseases occur and can include:

• Anemia
• Liver disease
• Intestinal disease and reproductive problems
• Lymphoma or leukemia
• Chronic respiratory infections
• Chronic gingivitis and stomatitis (inflammation of the gums and mouth)
• Poor healing of wounds and abscesses

How is FeLV Transmitted?

• Transmission occurs through the saliva, feces, milk, and urine of an infected cat. The most common transmission route is through saliva. FeLV is transferred through grooming, licking, biting, shared dishes, and shared litter pans. An infected mother can transfer it to her kittens during pregnancy or nursing.
• Close cat-to-cat contact is required to transmit the disease. FeLV can also be transmitted through a blood transfusion.
• Young cats, especially those under 4-6 months of age, are the most susceptible to FeLV since their immune systems are not fully mature.
• FeLV cannot be transmitted to people, dogs, or other animals.

Testing

You can diagnose FeLV with a simple blood test that is available at most veterinary practices. The two types of blood tests most commonly used for diagnosis:

• ELISA (enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay) This test identifies FeLV proteins in your cat’s blood and can identify cats with early infections.
• IFA (indirect immunofluorescent antibody assay) This test must be sent to a diagnostic laboratory and can detect when the disease has progressed into the secondary stage. Generally, cats with a IFA-positive test result have a poor long-term prognosis.

All new cats or kittens should be tested for FeLV.  Any cats that have been exposed to a known FeLV-infected cat, cats with outdoor access, and any cats that are ill, should also be tested. Due to the nature of the virus, after exposure an infected cat may not test positive for about 60 days.

Vaccination for FeLV

• Vaccination against FeLV is recommended for all cats. It is especially recommended for cats with access to outdoors, cats living with known FeLV-infected cats, and in multi-cat environments.
• FeLV vaccination is also recommended for all kittens since they have an increased susceptibility to the virus.

Treatment and Management

• Unfortunately, there is no cure for FeLV. If your cat tests positive for FeLV and has a progressive infection, he will remain infected for the rest of his life.
• A FeLV vaccination is not beneficial if your cat is already infected.
• FeLV infected cat need to remain indoors and should be neutered.
• Partner with your veterinarian to help your cat feel well for as long as possible and protect them from secondary infection. Together you can  help manage your cat’s condition, including the symptoms and any FeLV-associated diseases that may develop.

Your cat counts on you for protection

One of the very best things you can do to give your cat a long and healthy life is to ensure that he or she is vaccinated against common feline diseases. Your cat’s mother gave her kitten immunity from disease for the first few weeks of existence by providing disease-fighting antibodies in her milk. After that period it’s up to you-with the help and advice of your veterinarian-to provide that protection.

How do vaccines work?

Vaccines contain small quantities of altered or “killed” viruses, bacteria or other disease-causing organisms. When administered, they stimulate your cat’s immune system to produce disease-fighting cells and proteins-or antibodies-to protect against disease.

When should my cat be vaccinated?

Generally, the immunity that a kitten has at birth begins to diminish after 9 weeks. It is then usually time to begin the initial vaccinations, with the booster following 3 to 4 weeks later. Thereafter, your cat will require repeat vaccinations for the rest of his or her life. Of course, these are only guidelines – your veterinarian will be able to determine the exact schedule that’s right for your pet.

Which vaccinations should my cat receive?

Most veterinarians believe that your pet should be protected against those diseases which are most common, highly contagious and cause serious illness. Such diseases include Feline Panleukopenia, Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Feline Calicivirus, Feline Chlamydophila, Feline Leukemia and Rabies. Other vaccinations may be recommended, based on your veterinarian’s evaluation of the risks posed by such factors as your cat’s particular heredity, environment and lifestyle.

Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis

Just as with the human common cold, the virus that causes this upper respiratory-tract infection is easily transmitted from one cat to another, so vaccination is imperative if your pet will come in contact with other cats. Its symptoms may take the form of moderate fever, loss of appetite, sneezing, eye and nasal discharges and coughing. Kittens are particularly affected, but this disease can be dangerous in any unprotected cat, as effective treatment is limited. Even if a cat recovers, it can remain a carrier for life.

Feline Leukemia (FeLV)

Infection with the Feline Leukemia Virus can result in a multitude of serious health problems for your cat-everything from cancerous conditions such as lymphoma to a wide range of secondary infections caused by the destruction of the immune response system. In fact, it is the leading cause of death in North American cats. After initial exposure to the virus, a cat may show no symptoms of its presence for months, if not years, yet all the while infect others. Testing is available to determine the FeLV status of your cat. If he or she has not yet been infected, but is likely to come in contact with cats that are, vaccination against this fatal disease is highly recommended.

Feline Calicivirus

This virus is another major cause of upper respiratory-tract infection in cats. Widespread and highly contagious, its symptoms of fever, ulcers and blisters on the tongue and pneumonia (inflammation of the lungs) can range from mild to severe, depending on the strain of virus present. Once again, treatment of this disease can be difficult. Even if recovery does take place, a recovered cat can continue to infect other animals, as well as experience chronic sneezing and runny eyes. Vaccination is therefore tremendously important.

Feline Panleukopenia

Sometimes known as feline distemper, this disease is caused by a virus so resistant, it can survive over one year outside a cat’s body! Therefore, as most cats will be exposed to it during their lifetimes and infection rates in unprotected cats can run as high as 90% to 100%, vaccination against this usually fatal disease is absolutely essential. Symptoms can include listlessness, diarrhea, vomiting, severe dehydration and fever. Happily, the vaccine itself is very effective in preventing the disease, as treatment is very difficult and, even if recovery takes place for a period of time, a once-infected cat can spread the disease to other, unvaccinated animals.

Rabies

This incurable viral disease affects the central nervous system of almost all mammals, including humans. It is spread through contact with the saliva of infected animals (which can include skunks, foxes, raccoons and bats) through bites or any break in the skin. Vaccination will provide your cat with much greater resistance to rabies if he is exposed to the disease, but you must be aware that there is no cure once it occurs. For this reason, many municipalities absolutely require that all cats receive rabies vaccinations on a regular basis. Plus, you will definitely have to prove that your cat is vaccinated if you ever have to travel with him-whether across the country or around the world.

Other Vaccinations

After evaluating your cat’s particular situation and risk factors, your veterinarian may also recommend vaccination against other infectious diseases. But that determination is made based on your cat’s life style and potential of coming into contact with these rarer diseases.

Feline Chlamydophila

This bacterial disease is responsible for 5% of all feline respiratory diseases. It is extremely contagious, especially in young kittens and the infection rate is very high. It causes a local infection of the mucous membranes of the eyes but may also involve the lungs. Chlamydophila can be transmitted to humans by direct contact. Vaccination is the preferred method for prevention.

How effective is vaccination?

Like any drug treatment or surgical procedure, vaccinations cannot be 100% guaranteed. However, used in conjunction with proper nutrition and acceptable sanitary conditions, vaccination is clearly your pet’s best defense against disease. Plus, when you consider what treating a serious illness can cost you and your beloved cat in terms of both money and distress, prevention through vaccination is extremely cost-effective.

Why Do Pets Run Away?

Dogs and cats by their very nature have characteristics that make wandering common. Both are highly curious by nature. Their close relatives include wolves and tigers, both of which hunt and check out new areas of interest continually. Exploring and chasing objects of desire is an instinctive action for household pets; even if they receive proper attention and care at home, because by their nature they will have an inkling to find out what lies beyond their territories, and sometimes that longing can’t be denied.

Dogs in particular have several forces that could potentially propel them out the door. For starters, just the smell of another dog in heat could spark their procreation urge. Neutering and spaying reduce this likelihood by about 90 percent, but that leaves a small percentage of fixed animals that are ruled by pheromones. Another way their noses get them into trouble is by smelling food. If a tasty treat from afar tempts them enough, they’ll seek out its source. Also, if they’re not being stimulated enough at home-puppies and certain breeds have tons of energy and need proper outlets for it – they can run away out of sheer boredom.

Ask Your Veterinarian About Microchipping Your Pet

It Gives Your Pet a Silent Voice.

Even though family pets cannot talk you have the power to provide a silent voice to your “best friend,” by microchipping your family pet. A microchip is a small device, about the size of a grain of rice. The microchip is an identifying integrated circuit that your veterinarian can implant under the skin of your family pet.

Why Microchip Your Pet?

Each year millions of lost and abandoned animals are taken in by animal welfare organizations throughout the United States. A very small percentage of those lost pets are actually reunited with their family. The major reason for failing to reunite a lost pet with its owner is because the pets are unidentifiable. Microchipping offers pet owners the only truly permanent method of identifying your pet and linking the animal back to you. If you want to improve your pet’s chances of getting home in a lost-pet emergency-microchipping is your best option.

Is a Collar and Tag Adequate? What About Tattooing My Dog?

Collars are good, but both collars and tags may be removed or get lost and tattooing can become illegible over time – Microchipping is the only truly permanent method of identifying your dog.

Can My Cat Be Microchipped?

Cats by nature are curious and unpredictable. If they are drawn away from the safety of their home, you need to give them the best chance of getting home safely. In the event your cat does get lost, a registered microchip is your cat’s best chance of getting home.

Is Microchipping Painful?

Animal microchips are about the size of a grain of rice and are typically implanted just beneath the skin between the shoulder blades by your veterinarian. The process is similar to a vaccination and most animals do not react when the microchip is implanted.

Microchipping Really Works.

The Humane Society of the United States recently published a study that involved 53 separate animal shelters, located throughout the United States, to determine the effect that microchips had in reuniting lost pets with their families. In this study that involved thousands of animals, the results showed a 250% increase in reuniting microchipped dogs with their owners as compared to those dogs that had not been microchipped, and a 20-fold increase in reuniting lost cats with their family, in comparison to those that had not been microchipped.

When Is the Best Time to Microchip Your Pet?

If your pet is not currently microchipped, it would be good to consider having it done today. If you have a new puppy or kitten, we recommend that you have them microchipped at the time of their final puppy or kitten vaccination.
How Much Does it Cost to Register My Pet in the PetLink Lost Pet Database?
It costs you nothing. When your veterinarian implants the microchip in your pet it automatically includes registration into the PetLink Lost Pet Database for the life of your pet.

How Much Are the Annual Fees Required to Maintain My Pet Registered in the PetLink Database?

When your veterinarian implants your pet with a Datamars microchip there are no hidden or annual fees to maintain your pet registration in the PetLink Database. Some other manufacturers of microchips do charge an additional fee every year to maintain your pet in the registry database, but not Datamars. You should ask your veterinary practitioner if the product that he or she is implanting under the skin of your pet includes lost pet registration that is good for the life of your pet or will you be charged to maintain the registration each year.

A few fundamentals

Cats, now the most popular pet in North America and Europe, were once described as asocial animals, but this is no longer regarded as true. Although very different from dogs, cats also need interaction and most importantly, your loving attention! When you bring a new kitten or cat into your home you’ll have to decide whether your pet will live strictly indoors or will be allowed outside. There are advantages and disadvantages in both cases. Free-roaming cats are prone to more illnesses and have a much shorter life expectancy, as they can be hit by cars, attacked by other animals and exposed to internal and external parasites such as fleas, worms and ear mites. Conversely, if your cat never ventures outside you must provide him or her with physical and mental stimulation, including interaction with you, exercise, scratching posts and a clean toilet area. Whatever decision you make, following a few simple guidelines to direct your cat’s behavior can ensure that harmony reigns in your cat-loving household!

Playtime helps keep your cat healthy and happy

Make sure your kitten or cat has lots of opportunities for interesting, challenging play that will satisfy his natural instincts and provide him with much-needed activity. Find toys that bounce or flutter-there are many available-that he can pretend to “chase,” “hunt” and “capture.” Some cats love to chase moving spots of light, whether they’re produced by mirrors or flashlights. You can also attach a ball of aluminum foil to a long string and tie it to your belt or waist. As you move about, your cat will have a great time interacting with you while trying to “catch” the ball. Just be sure to make the string long enough that kitty doesn’t accidentally catch your leg! You should try to have at least one daily, 15-minute interactive play session with your cat, especially if he is often left alone.

Make sure you have a post that’s up to scratch

Scratching just comes naturally to cats. An instinctive activity that begins when kittens are five weeks old, scratching allows cats to leave chemical and visual signals that, among other functions, serve as “messages” to other cats and animals. However, what’s entirely normal for your cat can become a big problem for you if he starts scratching your carpets and furniture. If this happens, you can cover or remove the tempting object or use plastic Nail Caps that are glued to the cat’s claws. Unfortunately, these caps must be cut and replaced every month and some cats do not tolerate them. Therefore, an easier, more practical solution is to provide your cat with a special scratching place, usually a post, of his own. As befits the feline reputation, you may find that your kitten or cat may be slightly picky about what kind of scratching post he or she will agree to use.

• Not all commercially available scratching posts are equally attractive to all cats.
• Posts that some cats might find acceptable have sisal, cardboard, wood or wood composite surfaces.
• Some cat owners have found that making their own posts, whether from soft logs, tree stumps or a piece of 2×4 wood covered in sisal or another material with a longitudinal weave does the trick.
• The most important characteristics of a post are that it be taller than the cat when he stands on his hind legs, sturdy enough not to tip over and located in a prominent, easily accessible area.
• A board about 6-8 inches wide by 12-14 inches long attached to a wall can also work well.

Whatever its construction, the scratching post or board should not be changed as long as your cat is still using it. The more scratched and awful looking, the more your cat will love and use it-instead of your furniture!

Cats appreciate clean facilities, too!

Cats are fastidious creatures, so providing your pet with a clean, easily accessible toilet area will help minimize any litter problems. Cats generally prefer unscented, soft-textured fine litter. Some cats like to urinate in one box and defecate in another so the ideal number of litter boxes is one box per cat plus one. Therefore, a two-cat household should have three litter boxes placed on different floors or in different rooms. Don’t put litter boxes next to noisy equipment such as furnaces or washing machines-cats prefer quiet. Scoop out fecal matter (and urine if you use a clumping litter) daily. Wash boxes with water and mild dish soap once a week if you use non-clumping litter or once a month if you use the clumping type. Elimination outside the box can occur for several different reasons, various medical conditions being the most common. If you suspect your cat might have such a condition, consult your veterinarian for a diagnosis and appropriate treatment.

Spraying or urine marking

Spraying, or urine marking, is a normal behavior in cats with intact sexual organs, and as well in neutered male or spayed female cats. In fact, as many as 10% of male and 5% of female adult cats spray regularly. Spraying is often associated with the presence of other cats (both inside and outside the home) or other stresses, such as changes in the cat’s environment (a new roommate, pet or baby, or perhaps a change in the amount of time the cat is left alone), that can cause anxiety. Spraying may be the way your cat communicates his anxiety. Treatment is available-ask your veterinarian.

Here’s the good news: your kitten is already hardwired to make litter training easy, so it’s up to you to encourage your kitten’s good litter box behavior.

The scoop on litter

Different kittens prefer different types of litter. Fortunately, there are a lot of options commercially available. Make the choice based on what works for both of you.

You might like to scoop every day (in that case, scoopable litter is your new best friend) or you might like to dump the whole box and start fresh. Find out what your kitten prefers by testing out different litter options. Place different types of litter in similar boxes and see which one your kitten gravitates toward.

Think outside the box

Litter boxes come in all shapes, sizes, materials and colors. Make sure you pick one that is easy to clean, because a clean box is the key to maintaining good litter habits. Some boxes have tall sides, making kittens less likely to scatter litter with their boisterous shoveling, but keep in mind that your cat is going to be with you their entire life, so the high sides might make getting in and out of the box difficult as your kitten ages.

What your kitten decides she likes as a kitten may be a lifelong preference, so think ahead. Your cat should be able to comfortably enter and exit the box and have room to completely turn around (while scratching) inside, so be sure that your box choice can accommodate your kitten’s expected adult size.

Out of sight, out of mind

Cats know they are vulnerable when they eliminate, so offer them a safe, quiet place to eliminate. In order to avoid litter box aversions later on, make sure nothing scary or bad happens when your kitten is in the box.
In addition, your cat shouldn’t be forced to share a single box with other cats in the house. Set up one litter box per cat plus one extra, so there’s no conflict over box use. Don’t forget to place your litter box in a place that’s not so out of the way that your kitten will find an easier option.

Say no to yelling ‘no’

Never yell at your kitten or rub their nose in an accident if they miss the box. Your kitten cannot sort out their fear of your rough handling from what you are trying to convey, which could cause your kitten to fear you. If you see your kitten start to posture for elimination outside the box, quickly scoop them up, place them gently in the box and give them some privacy. If your kitten is not choosing the box, it is up to you to find out why.

With a little planning and some testing, you should be able to find out exactly what you and your cat prefer, setting you both on the path to live happily litter after!